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In Reply to: Riding Giants posted by jamesgarvin on August 9, 2005 at 13:30:30:
If you liked Riding Giants, probably my favorite surf movie is the Mavericks documentary, telling the story of this northern California break way offshore and the first people to venture out into this cold rough water- and the year that it turned massive and attracted the big wave crowd from around the world. Amazing footage, well you see that in Riding Giants as well. There are not really very many people in the world who ride these huge waves. For most people, it would be suicidal. I enjoy the ocean, but above about 6 feet (looks a lot bigger when your head is water level), I'm out.
Follow Ups:
I'll certainly look for it. With respect to waves, I remember when I was in Hawaii a couple of years ago, I rented a car to tour the big island. I stopped on the east shore to go swimming. The waves were maybe 8-10 feet. They look much smaller from the shore. I am in decent shape, but those 8-10 footers in chest high water easily took me under, and pretty much tossed me wherever. I could not imagine being tossed around by a thirty, much less a fifty footer. Well, I could, which is why you would never catch me there. I drove further North, and my wife and I stopped, closer to the north shore. Sunset, and still there were surfers surfing in water that was littered with rocks.
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