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Seems like my Toshiba hdx82 is hot or torched out of the box- too bright. Wouldn't calibration soften or mellow the colors so the color tube will last longer? Regards, Bob.
Follow Ups:
Mmmm...ISF....I thought I'd just interject what often goes undiscussed in AV circles. Not everyone prefers an ISF calibrated image. Yes, in theory at least you get a more "accurate" image, but like in high-end audio, "accurate" does not always equate to "looks better." Many have found an ISF'd display looks flatter and dimmer, less "alive." Other people have just the opposite reaction - it depends on what type of display you own, how it was set before the ISF guy arrived, and what your subjective viewing preferences are.
In the case of RPTVs it seems almost mandatory to have it ISF'd. I've rarely heard of someone NOT preferring the image of their RPTV after an ISF. And since the settings are usually so off factory-wise an increase in picture quality - in realism too - is often happily noted.
Myself, I prefer the least electronic-looking, most realistic, natural and believable image possible. I love that vibe like I'm looking through the camera lens itself to the actors on set.
While an increase in such realism can be the happy result of professional calibration, it is not the goal per se; the goal being to bring your display settings in line with NTSC standards. Accuracy to the source. Although it should be noted there is some art in the craft, as the final dialing in of the image is often done by eye, and hence to the ISF technician's taste. The thing is most people have their display ISF'd and figure "well, that's that: there's no way I could get a more convincing image than this - it's been done by a pro."
I had my plasma ISF calibrated by a noted professional and after living for months with the results ended up preferring the image I had previously dialed by eye (which, in turn, I had preferred to settings dialed via AVIA). I'm not a heathen: the plasma is far from torch mode, and in fact most films look less garish and more believable on my settings than my ISF'd settings (so far the 15 critical-eyed folks who have compared the settings agree).
I'm not the only one who has experienced this to say the least.This actually is no knock at all on the ISF school, which I in fact highly support. I agree in the need for standards. But in the area of "picture quality, believability, realism" (vs strict accuracy) I found I could go further toward that goal on my own.
Just trying to add another angle to the discussion.
(That said, considering the type of TV owned by the original poster, I'd bet he would benefit from a professional ISF calibration).
Rich H.
All in good fun. Wassuuuup, Rich!
Hey Joe,Ain't I a trouble-making meathead or what?
Oh dear, you posted "the" link. (Runs for cover...)
Rich.
...are always great reads. I can't believe I read that whole thread, even though I don't own a plasma...yet. I especially appreciated your comments about directors' intent. (Gee, how many times have I complained to theater managers about old bulbs???)I'm not sure how effective ISF calibration is for plasmas anyway, since they are a unique technology. I would absolutely have any CRT RP ISF'd, however.
I VE'd my 34" direct view HDTV, but I still fine tuned it by eye, and use different settings according to input...SD cable varies widely from channel to channel. I was surprised how good the grey scale and color were on my Phillips right out of the box.
Thanks Harmonia.I agree, I'd have an RPTV ISF calibrated for sure. It's been said numerous times by calibrators that what often makes the biggest impression are those things not necessarily confined to dialing the picture to NTSC standards. The add-ons, like taking of RPTV anti-glare screens, cleaning, focusing of guns, reduction of over-scan etc tend to induce the WOW reaction. So RPTVs and Projectors have quite a bit more to tweak in that regard.
Rich H
What do you mean "yet"? Aren't those new Panasonics tempting you? Calling you? Begging to be "taken" by you?I will pull the trigger in less than 2 months. The bullet's loaded as we speak, only it's trying to decide on the TH42PA20U or the TH42PWD6UY. Oh, these decisions...
'Course, I think in the future we will see more media-box bundles. One outboard box (for the inputs, A/D conversion, scaling, etc) and a digital interface (DVI) to the plasma. That's the real ticket.
that you are "cooking up" another one of your thought provoking concoctions as we speak.Can't wait to see what's on the menu. Let me know when dinner's ready!
You are experiencing "torch" mode (aka manufacturer "stupidity" mode). Leave it on this setting and things will begin to happen -- but they won't be good.Until you get a calibration disc (Video Essentials, Avia or Digital Video Essentials - 8/03), use these settings for your display:
Brightness/Black Level: 60% of full setting
Contrast/Picture: 30% of full setting
Color/Saturation: 60% of full setting
Hue/Tint: 50% of full setting
Sharpness: 30% of full settingThey won't be perfect, but they should be close to proper calibration levels. Your current settings will win you a trip to the Toshiba service center. Trust me -- you don't want the tour.
nt
I would recommend turning down the sharpness completely as it just adds noise to the outlines and edges of defined objects. Another tip, at least for my Panny 47WX49 widescreen, was to disable the scan velocity modulation. See the link below for more on why.In my set's case, it was simply a matter of removing a front panel, then disconnecting a single wire.
But Joe's right, definitely turn the brightness down!!!
Kinda off subject, but I just wanted to comment on the "ISF" calibration thing that the mags such as SGHT have done on the sets they review. They never mention the cost of these services, which I understand to be $500+ a visit, plus the service should be done on a yearly (or less) basis! The recently reviewed Hitachi RPTV sets are a good example, from what I've read, it's almost mantantory to have done, to get the same performance of the sets out of the box as they did. I do understand that the test equipment the calibrator guys use is very expensive, along with extensive training which does justifiy the charges, I just feel that the mags pass it off as a simple "service call".I'm thinking I will use the Avia disc (or something similar) on my new Pioneer Elite, and let it go at that!
I'm intrigued by the potential performance improvement of calibration on my Hitachi 51SWX20B, but I'm also pretty happy with what I've achieved on my own, so far-learned how to access the service menu thanks to the good folks over at avsforum.com, and did the "red push" tweak and manuel convergence. I soon as work up the courage to remove the front panel, I'm going to try adjusting the focus trimpots, too. I understand basic calibration w/grayscale for one input can be had for $275-for that price, it's very tempting.
"A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them".
-P. J. O'Rourke
If it wasn't for the rebates on the Elites, I would have a 57S500 on order right now.
You probably already know this, but there is lot of "Hitachi Tweaks" info over at the AVS forum, for tuning up the picture.
I've had it done. Cost me $450. Worth every penny.I had calibrated carefully with "Video Essentials" and performed convergence religiously. However, that (no pun intended) paled in comparison to razor-sharp images, lifelike color and, most dramatically, DEPTH that my ISF tech, Gregg Loewen, was able to bring to my set (Panny 47WX49).
Highly, highly recommended. And he only charges $200 for touch-ups, which he says can be 12-24 months depending on use of the set.
I may have it done myself, later down the road. First I need to upgrade the $400 DVD player and the old DSS receiver I'm using now with higher-end units with DVI outputs, and of course after the PRO730HD has broken-in. That should make the improvements worth it.
You'll see significant improvements, not to worry!But yes, higher-level equipment on the front end will also help. I was lucky enough to score a Panny RP91 right before Gregg came, so he helped me tweak a few settings in that too. What's your DVD player? If progressive scan, it's probably fine.
The coolest thing is, he set it up so all my settings (except sharpness) are flat @ 31. So I can tweak the picture from digital cable or OTA, then easily toggle it right back to its calibrated settings. About every six months (it's now been 14) I've wicked up the brightness to compensate for the slow fade in the guns, so now I'm at 33.
You can rent Video Essentials, tweak your set, then return it. Monthly subscription cost aside, it's a nearly free way to DIY calibrate.
I use the evil Blockbusters down the road, guess it wouldn't hurt to ask if they carried it.My DVD player is a Sony DVP-NC650V changer, it is not progressive, but does have component outputs. When I bought it over a year ago, never thought that I would be upgrading to Hi-Def this soon. (due to the old 35" direct view crapping out)
I am getting the feeling that THE new video standard will be DVI, so will wait until there is a few more choices out there, other than the Samsung and Bravo units.
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