|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
68.19.170.254
In Reply to: question regarding ht preamp outputs.... posted by dude on October 08, 2004 at 16:50:56:
Play a CD through the Integrated. Turn the Balance control all the way to one side. Adjust the volume to a reasonably loud setting (about 75dB A-weighted in Slow mode on an SPL meter should do it). Remember that setting: mark it somehow for accuracy's sake. An easy method is to get a pack of those small "dot" stickies. Put one on the face of the INT to mark the location. If your INT's Volume control doesn't have a mark/line, also put a dot on the V control corresponding to where the dot on the face of the INT is located. This is just a suggestion to make things easy and convenient for you in the future. Turn the Balance control back to the mid-point and shut off the INT.Use a calibration DVD (such as Digital Video Essentials or Avia) with at least 5.1 audio calibration tones/pink noise. You can use the processor/receiver's built-in test tones, but they are not as reliable as a calibration disc. Plug in the L and R outputs from the P/R's preamp section to an unused input (like AUX) on the INT. Turn on the P/R first, then the INT, and switch the INT to the AUX input.
Play the calibration disc in your DVD player (or use the built-in test tones of the P/R, if you must). Gradually increase the volume (the tones/noise will play in one channel at a time) until the L and R speakers get to 75dB on the SPL meter. Without changing the Master Volume control setting on the P/R, adjust the rest of the channels via the P/R's individual level controls to get the rest of the channels (LS, RS, C) to equal the 75dB that each L and R channel, on its own, produces.
Using these instructions, you set the INT (which has essentially become a pass-thru device when watching movies) at the "mark" when you want to watch movies and the volume of all of the speakers is essentially controlled by the P/R's Master Volume control. Your INT's V control stays put and the P/R's V control can be changed to suit your needs. Your CD player stays directly connected to the INT and the P/R has nothing to do with audio from the INT.
As for the SUB, I set it where I want it. But in order to not overload and potentially damage the driver, I'd use a DVD with serious LFE/.1 output and be sure that playing your system at the level you want doesn't cause the driver to bottom out. If it does, change the individual level setting on the P/R for the SUB or decrease the SUB's volume (if you use a powered sub) to a point that eleviates the bottoming.
If you're using the 5.1 outputs of your DVD player (if it has 5.1 outputs) to the 5.1 inputs on your P/R, the above still applies -- just do the individual level setting in the DVD player's set-up menu.
I hope this helps.
Follow Ups:
What I described above in " Here's how to do it. " will also work for stereo receivers, surround receivers and amps with line level inputs [Pioneer M-1 (?), Carver A706-x, etc].It's not the easiest and most intuitive configuration to set up, but it works. And if you don't have the money to buy the latest and greatest, it nicely fits the bill (Ouch! Did I say that?).
thanks joe!
-one other question.... can i hook up my sub to play for audio amd also for ht??? at worst, i can always buy two subs. used are relatively inexpensive....
Another question?
:-)Actually, it depends on a few things. At the end of the day, you can always rig up, I mean uh... improvise, something (though it will not be a purist approach) to suit your needs -- even if it's just a simple line level or speaker level switch.
For the best response, maybe you could answer a few questions:
What type of sub do you have, powered or passive?
If it's powered, what type of inputs does it have?
If it's passive, what are you using to drive it?I don't know how many subs are out there like this, but Krell has a nice input configuration on one of their powered subs. There are 2 low level (as well as high level) stereo inputs for music and 1 low level (as well as a high level) mono (LFE/.1) input for movies. This allows for a audio and video system to use the same sub. I believe it may also automatically select the correct input based on whether there is a signal present at that input, but I'm not positive on that aspect.
Price? Well, if you have to ask...
Go to page 21 (page 20 has reference for the numbers). It would be nice if all powered subs came with this type of input option, making integration of audio and HT systems much easier.
Or did you figure out your audio/HT sub question?
maybe buy sub. maybe need processor. but tv/ht, i think needs more oomph. i have rotel rb-1070 (using arcam pre) that sounds much better for tv than arcam. maybe need lots more power and maybe don't need sub. the rotel is 130wpc. low feq is much more. so when watching tv (2 channel), so much easier. with arcam i strain to hear everyhing or need to turn volume way up and then voices and hf too forward. maybe need 200wpc or so to drive.
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: