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Need speakers that can rock with just one watt? You found da place.

RE: Drivers for existing cabinet

The low end "knee" or corner is tied to the sensitivity and interior cabinet volume. So the LF -3 point, box volume and 1w sensitivity are tied together by the wall of science aka Hoffman's iron law, not a suggestion haha.
While your HF response may be rolled off, you have also adjusted to that and will notice if what was is no longer. But a woofer that gives you lower bass also doesn't go up high and a 6.5 inch driver is too large to go up all the way without a wacky radiation pattern.

Before you decide what to do, consider dipping a toe in the speaker building water.
Take one of your speakers your considering working on and put it on the table or living room floor and look at the woofer.
Examine the mounting screws and carefully remove them. They might be wood screws -or- machine screws with fine thread and a"T-nut" or threaded insert in the wood.

The woofer may well be kind of stuck to the baffle board, good speakers have a back gasket to seal that connection. If the woofer seems stuck, get a couple small blocks and position the speaker front down raised at the corners by the blocks. Usually gravity will free the driver after a little while.
If not, use a small wood block on the baffle to protect it and use a flat blade screw driver to pry up the edge of the driver, you may have to pry up in several places if it's really stuck (there was a speaker in the old days that actually caulked the drivers in).
IF your cabinet happened to have a port in the right place on the back, if you can push on the magnet with a stick that can pop one out too.

With the driver out, you have "it" in your hands and now you can look at your mounting hole diameter and bolt circle for if/when you look at drivers. Hopefully the driver has push terminals or push on removable connection but note which wire went where.
Hope that helps
Tom

About how far is the closest edge of the lf cone to the center of the tweeter?





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